On me blog post “Lengberg Castle brassiere, it works!” I added a comparison picture between a modern bra and my Lengberg castle bra dress, but the pictures were taken one year apart and from different angles so they did not really show the true difference but perhaps more of my body one year apart. ;)

So I decided to take some new pictures to show it from more angles as well.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - comparison front
To the left is the modern under wire bra and to the right is my Lengberg castle brassiere dress.
The most noticable difference is how it sits under the bust. It is strange since the modern bra sits tighter just under the bust then the Lengberg castle brassiere does, but still the medieval bra makes the dress sit tighter under the bust. The Lengberg castle brassiere gives me slightly more waist definition, it is not strange as it goes further down to my waist then my modern bra and since I am quite soft the Lengberg castle brassiere pulls my waist in a bit. Add that the Lengberg castle brassiere have a skirt part on it it also builds slightly on my hips, it does not really show in this picture but it shows from the side and gives the illusion of a slimmer waist as well.
My breast look a tad rounder to, also strange since I wear a balconette bra that with my modern clothings gives a very rounded bust.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - comparison side
To the left is the modern under wire bra and to the right is my Lengberg castle brassiere dress.
Here you see it, that the skirt part have given me more stomach then with my modern bra. I had not noticed this in real life, you can see that the dress goes in under the bust more as well. I am guessing that this is because of the pleated skirt that is on the Lengberg castle brassiere and it gives me the slightly pregnant oh so trendy 14th century posture.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - comparison back
To the left is the modern under wire bra and to the right is my Lengberg castle brassiere dress.
Over all the Lengberg castle brassiere gives me a smoother look and you can see here as well that it makes me even more hippy then I am from the start and defines my waist a bit more.

So there you have it, this is the difference on me between wearing my modern under wire bra (that really fits well) and me wearing my Lengberg castle brassiere dress. There is a difference in how the dress sits on me but the function of the two brassieres are the same, it keeps my breasts happy and where they should be all day.

My other posts about the Lengberg Castle brassiere.

Lengberg Castle brassiere
Lengberg Castle brassiere – It works

In my previous blog post about the Lengberg Castle brassiere where you can find the pattern I had just made it and not really worn it, I mostly wanted to put the pattern out there as soon as possible so that people could try it by themselves for the summer season.

But now I have finally tried it out to see how it works.
The fabric used for it was a bit thin so I have lined the body of it (not the cups) with a heavier linen fabric, I have also added a skirt part, as can be seen many of the medieval pictures. I have also made the cups slightly less pointy as I was not really happy whit the shape of the breasts.

Here are some pictures of the brassiere type of dress.
My favourite picture, I need one of those pillows
A woman in a window
One more that has wider shoulder straps.

Lengberg Castle brassiere, it works

Now on to how it actually works.
I wore my bra dress for every day of my visit to Visby, that is 6 full days.
I have never worn anything as comfortable as this thing, I usually get marks from wearing my modern under wire bra for a full day. But with my bra dress there was NO marks at all, and this things sits really tight around the torso! I think that as I used a soft wool braid in the lacing this helped with not giving me any lines from the lacing either.
There is not as much lift as my modern under wire, but there was no uncomfortable droopyness, they sat where they should all day with no discomfort. I really recommend this style, I have big breasts and it worked perfectly for them. Also, the fantastic feeling of not having any uncomfortable pressure from my under wire, that does give me marks after a full days work.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - front
Here is a picture of the front of the bra dress (hello hips!).

Lengberg Castle brassiere - comparison
Even if taken at slightly different angles and one year apart, the left picture is my green dress with my bra dress under, and the right picture is my green dress with a modern bra under.

My other posts about the Lengberg Castle brassiere.

Lengberg Castle brassiere
Lengberg Castle brassiere – comparison

Lengberg Castle brassiere

From the first time I saw the Lengberg Castle underwear I knew that I would want to make something similar. Having big breasts complicates things, I would prefer not to wear modern bras with my medieval clothes. But there is no chance that I can get away with not wearing anything at all. The fitted front dresses might work, but I prefer to use ease in my garments and I am not all that fond of the shape my breasts would get in that kind of fitted underwear.

So the Lengberg Castle brassiere was perfect, it is just like a modern bra, but with more coverage and in linen.

There are quite a few interesting articles on the net already, you should check them out in stead of me trying to communicate what they are about.

Medieval supportive underwear at Medieval Silkwork
Supportive underwear in written sources at Medieval Silkwork
About medieval bra(shirt)s and other underwear by Isis Sturtewagen
The “Invention” of Needle-lace in East Tyrol? – University of Innsbruck

Lengberg Castle brassiere - 1
I used a lot of needles and draped this pattern on my self wearing my regular bra. It is really hard to drape on yourself so I recommend that you get a friend to help you. But after a evening of contortionism I had a pattern.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - 2
It might be the silliest looking pattern I have ever made.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - 3
One of my favourite things to do is actually sewing eyelets, my brassiere have 6-7 at each side and is spiral laced.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - 4
The lacing I used is lucet braided wool.

The result is this, the seams are made with felled seams that are placed on the outside, to make it as smooth as possible for the skin.
Lengberg Castle brassiere - 5
Lengberg Castle brassiere - 6
ILengberg Castle brassiere - 7
Lengberg Castle brassiere - 8
Lengberg Castle brassiere - 9
Lengberg Castle brassiere - 10

It feels good to wear. I wore it for a full day in school and the only thing was that the bottom edge raised up under my bust but I will be attaching a skirt to and that might fix that problem. Also, My breast went kind of droopy with not as much lift as I am used to with my modern bra at the end of the day. But the linen I worked with is really thin and I will make a try with some sturdier linen and that might keep them up and happy all day. But it was really comfy even if they “sank” in height during the day.

This pattern is made after my body, so a mock up is very important. But I thought that there is always nice to see how the pattern looks, as a starting point for your own pattern.
I wear a European size 80H according to the label in my bra that is a 95H in France and 36H in UK, sorry you US ladies but I have no idea what that translates to. But my body measurements are: Bust 120cm and underbust 96cm.
As usual my pattern diagrams are in cm

Lengberg Castle brassiere front
Lengberg Castle brassiere back
Lengberg Castle brassiere cups

My other posts about the Lengberg Castle brassiere.

Lengberg Castle brassiere – It works
Lengberg Castle brassiere – comparison

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