As I am in the progress of making a new shirt to my kampfrau, I also needed a new steuchlein to wear over my wulsthaube since my old one is in raw silk just as my old shirt. And here is how I make my steuchlein complete with a pattern diagram.

steuchlein - pattern
So here is my pattern, I put the long side against the fold of the fabric and that is also the reason that my steuchlein is 150 cm long. I use the width of the fabric. In the end it is mostly like a liripipe pattern, but without the cape part.

steuchlein - cut and ready
I use a thin linen fabric from medeltidsmode.se and sew with silk thread, because I like it and I find that the linen thread I have is a bit to thick for this fabric.

steuchlein - end on tail
Start with hemming the end of the end of the tail, I cut my selvage away here, since I do not think it is that pretty and hemming with that gets so bulky. If you have nice selvage you can just ignore the hemming part and use the selvage as it is instead.

steuchlein - small running stithces
Then I sew the long seam that forms the tail part. I sew with small running stitches, using backstitch here is in my eyes just a waste of time since there is not any strain on this seam. Running stitches will work just as good.

steuchlein - scraping seams
Then I scrape the seams so that they lie flat. This is a period way of getting your seams smooth without ironing them. This is a bone tool that I use when I work with leather, but you can use whatever you like tree, bone your fingernails. I use my fingernails when I scrape my hems.

steuchlein - at tail
In the end of the tail, I fold in the raw edges and sew a bit. So that no loose threads will poke out.

steuchlein - felled seams to here
steuchlein - felled seams
Then I fell the seams. Not all the way since most of the seam allowances is in the tail part so that felling those would be a waste of time since they do not get any wear or is ever seen. The fabric is also cut slightly on bias here, so the edges will not really fray here anyway.

steuchlein - hem at bottom
Then I hem the bottom part. As you can see here, when working in linen fabric I like to pull out threads to know where my fold lines are. This ensures that the edges are 100% on straight grain.

steuchlein - double folded hem
My hems are double folded and when finished 0,5 cm wide, thin and nice.

steuchlein - pulling threads
Then it is time to hem the front of the steuchlein, I pull threads here as well, to know where to fold. I am going to hem it with a embroidery stitch, so I pull two more threads out to guide my stitches.

steuchlein - at face
Fold the front in, scrape the edge to make it flat.

steuchlein - hem at face
Here I have a single fold hem, using the selvage. Since it will not be seen and helps holding the front together. If you want to you can just hem it as it is now and then you are done.

steuchlein - herringbone stitch 1
steuchlein - herringbone stitch 2
steuchlein - herringbone stitch 3
steuchlein - herringbone stitch 4
steuchlein - herringbone stitch 5
But as my new shirt is with black embroidery I want to use the same thread on my steuchlein as well. So I decided to hem with a herringbone stitch.
So here are some pictures to explain the stitches. I sew with a linen thread that is slightly waxed to make it easy to sew with.
Here you can understand how it helps to pull out those threads. The embroidery is the exactly the same height all over.

steuchlein - herringbone stitch at back
On the back it looks like this.

steuchlein - hemmed front
I made a star it the centre front, to make it easier to put on right.

steuchlein - finished
steuchlein -  detail
And then you are done!

steuchlein - different ways
With this steuchlein you can make a lot of different styles very easy.

so it was ages ago that I made a tutorial for something and I had this one kind of laying around (in the paper version) so I thought that I should make it into a pretty Illustrator picture and upload it here with pictures of my own gollar that I made for this summer.

gollar - front open

My gollar is made out of wool and lined with rabbit fur and can be worn both with the collar down and the collar standing, it is closed with three hooks and eyes in the front.
As it is hard to take photos of your own back I bribed my sister to act as a model, she is much smaller then me so it looks a bit big on her.
gollar - front
gollar - side
gollar - back
gollar - detail
gollar - gusset detail
gollar - side open
gollar - back

Here are some inspirational pictures
Martin Schaffner 1533
gollar inspiration
gollar inspiration 2
Hans Holbein the Younger 1523
gollar inspiration 3

And finally the pattern, the measurements are in cm NOT in inches, click for bigger picture
I have been made aware that the original pattern have some things that are faulty, I have now added a new pattern here where the changes are made in red. It is that the cut for the gore in the back should be 13,5 cm long, not 13 as it said before as the gore when drafted is 13,5cm long.
Also the shoulder seam on the front pattern piece is to short. Elongate as the picture shows with 2,5 cm and redraw the curve of the collar.
Sorry for any inconvenience, this was my fist pattern and I did not check the seams before posting.

gollar - pattern front NEW
gollar - pattern back NEW

As usual a toile is a good idea to make sure of the fit before you cut into fancy fabric. Good luck and happy kampfrauing

So here it is at last, the under bust pattern tutorial! At one moment in the making of this tutorial my portable hard drive crashed and all the data for this tutorial was lost with it, I was almost done with it all it was just a matter of putting the text and the pictures together, I had a pdf version of it, on Swedish which was in one way a good thing but it was not totally finished and had a few things that needed to be fixed in the Illustrator made diagrams that were lost.

It kind of killed me to loose all my data, so I kind of gave up on it all but yesterday I had some luck with the hard drive and managed to save the files needed for this tutorial. I was beyond thrilled!

So I present to you all the under bust corset pattern tutorial!

Underbust corset pattern - striped corset

The biggest prejudices about corsets are that they are really uncomfortable to wear and that one cannot breath properly in them, this of course is all wrong. Sure there is a special feeling to wear a corset, you body is heald together in another way than most people are used to but there are no problem breathing, a corset that fits YOU well will ONLY reduce your measurements were it should, and that is the waistline. The problem with of the rack corsets are that they not necessarily fit you body type, you might have smaller hips then what the corset is made for and therefore you need to lace it more over the hips. This makes you lace your chest more tightly to be able to get the lacing as straight as it should be and that will make you feel like you cannot breathe properly. It says itself that to lace your chest tightly it is not healthy and can lead to problems. But as I said, a corset should only be reducing your waist measurement; a place where most of us have some squishy material anyway.

A lot of people fear pattern drafting, it seems hard, like there is a lot of math involved, but really it is not hard at all. All that is required is some logical thinking. There is no complicated math, no complicated techniques. It is all about drawing lines on a paper based on measurements taken from you own body.

What this text describes is how you, from measurements taken from your body makes a personal under bust corset pattern. What you will need is paper, pen, ruler and tape measure. This tutorial is based on how I make my patterns, after my personal pattern layout which is a corset in 12 pieces without side seam that will reduce more in the side and in the back. This gives a corset that is flat fronted and can if you want to have very dramatic curve in the without having any problems. Not having a side seam also means that you will not have any boning in the middle of the side. (more…)

So one is supposed to summon up the year that have passed and here comes my 2009

January
necklacesembroidered pendantsblack on black pincushionpair of stays2009-01-09 pocket hoops
I came up with a new version of my burned books necklace, did some embroidery. I started on a pair of stays and pocket hoops but it took me quite some time to finish them up.

February
casualsteam  shirt 1the finished jacket frontmy birthday cakegates print - under "construction"gray wool dress - front18th century pair of stays almost done
I made a steampunk inspired shirt, finished my striped jacket, became 21 and therefore made a cake, posted my panties tutorial, printed on fabric, made a gray wool dress and thought that I would finish the pair of stays soon. (it is not done yet ;))

March
summer dress finishednew dressbutton corset - details backPhotobucketnew necklace designblack warpcoin purses and a bow
I started march out with making a summer dress, then I made another dress to, I had a mini photo shoot all by myself on my balcony, I covered a corset in vintage buttons, I posted my “Victorian skirt” tutorial, I made more pretty necklaces, I wrote about the school I studied at and I also made some bows and purses.

April
finished rag rugcollectionre:design24 setup 5weaving damask - closeup on pattern
I made a rag rug, my sister turned 13 so I made her a cake, I was busy working with a final collection in school, I entered a competition and won my own sewing machine and I started to weave damask a technique that I totally loved.

May
button corset 2 - back
May was a bad month for me, my father passed away and that made me tired and I had no energy, to be able to keep the school work up I did not tell my teachers or classmates about it either, I had no time for being sad or being treated different since we were at the end of the term. I did some some things this month, I posted a tutorial on how I sew my corsets which is the thing that is most visited post in my entire blog and I covered a second corset with buttons.

June
swim dressfashion showorganic cotton jersey balloon dressdamask weave nr2empire waist balloon dressdamask dresscherries dresscarpetbagpanniers
This month was mostly about dresses! I made a swim dress, we had a fashion show in school, I made a organic cotton jersey dress, I started on a new damask fabric, I made a dress for my fathers funeral, I made a dress out of the damask fabric I made, I made a dress with cherries on it, I made a carpet bag and I finally got around to taking pictures of the finished panniers.

July
sewing a balloon skirtsteampunk heart - beside a pocket watch movement
I worked all of July so there was not really a creative month for me but I managed to make a tutorial on how to make a balloon skirt, drafted my first corset pattern for someone else then me and I also made steampunk hearts.

August
I did not make anything this month, but I moved and started a new school.

September
pencilskirt20simpleskirt1
This month I did not make anything either, I felt bad about it and made a tutorial on how to make a pencil skirt and a tutorial for a really simple skirt.

October
six by six -  furrosa - finishedgreen dress - onstriped corsetleatherworking - iron on transfer and d-ringsleather colour sampleswool balloon dress - mirror picturemoose apron - frontruffle skirtanother woll dress in the makingbook binding
My new school started in the end of august but I ha no time blogging about stuff until October, crazy crazy but fun fun! I tried out hands on new machines, made a leather rose, I made a green dress, I started on and almost finished a striped corset, I learned leather working techniques and how to colour leather, I made a wool balloon dress that became my definite favourite this year, I made a apron out of moose leather, I started some projects I never finished as this ruffle petticoat and this wool dress and I tried my hands on book binding.

November
scrapswool balloon dress - close up
Busy in school making stuff I had no time for blogging but I managed to post about how to turn leather scraps into useful things, I also translated my corset sewing tutorial to Swedish and made a peter pan collar drafting tutorial.

December
Xena outfit - on dollChristmas chocolateChristmas wrappingknäckcray dupion corset - lacingpaper model - straight onChristmas dress - closeupstriped corset - onmanipulation fabric - honeycomb smocksmocking leather - in progress on dollCordula B.-Morich
In December I made a lot of stuff but I have not posted about all I made yet. I did make a Xena outfit for a costume party at school, I did a lot of Christmas related stuff, chocolate, gift wrapping and “knäck”. I also made a gray dupion corset. built stuff out of cardboard, a Christmas dress, I finished the striped corset, I smocked a lot of fabric, and some leather to and then I also bought a kick ass pitcher that costed so much more then I could actually afford as a poor student.

wool balloon dress - close up
I got a question about how to draft the collars that I usually have on my garments. They are really simple to draft, surprisingly simple and here comes a little tutorial on how to.

(more…)

corset pattern scribblings
It is on the roll, it really is! I have written all the things and taken pictures so all I have to do is fix the pictures up and make the text computer written and in English (I made it in Swedish since I am going to have both languages on it this time).

I also need to make a mockup so that I see that my corset drafting tutorial actually works ;)
But stay tuned, underbust corset pattern drafting tutorial is in the making!

corset pattern
This tutorial will allow you to make your own personalized pattern, made from your own measurements and starting with a totally blank paper making the corset fit you like a glove, a very tight, nice and perfect glove.
It is based on my own pattern pieces layout without a side seam which I believe makes nicer shape and the corset reduces mostly in the sides and in the back, making a really straight front corset with flat belly.
But it is all explained in a way that is allowing you to decide were to put your seams if you don’t want them were I put mine.

a while ago I drafted my fist custom sized corset pattern for someone that is not me, a pattern that will be used by someone that is not me. Scary shit, I tell you that :p I am always so weary that it will turn out crap, deep within I always second guess myself and do not believe in my abilities. It is silly since I know pattern drafting, I do.

And today she posted pictures of her mock up corset, and it looks wonderful! It really does and the shape is gorgeous! All my bad feelings are wiped out in a second I an have to go back to the picture again and again giggling silly.
But pattern drafting for corsets are different, lots of stuff to take in to count like “squishability” and boobs (they are so unpredictable). So it is a bit big in the top and she can lace it in all the way shut, but that she said she could fix herself.

You should head over to her picture diary and look, I do it once every ten minutes ;)

http://sealsex.bilddagboken.se/p/show.html?id=390997380&directlink=1

I really should not promise this, since I do not know when I will have the time to do it but there WILL be a tutorial on how to draft your own underbust corset pattern sometime in the near future.

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