how I sew corsets

This is a guide of how I sew my corsets, I think that is is a really simple way since there is no need to worry about the “stitch in the ditch” issue, having seams that are not exactly aligned. This corset does not have a busk since I made this tutorial before I learned how to insert them. But HERE is a really nice tutorial on how you do it, it is also how I insert my busks.
This tutorial does not address any pattern making either, It is simply a note on sewing technique.

For you Swedish speaking people out there, I now have this tutorial in Swedish and it can be found HERE

This corset is made with coutil, my favorite fabric for corset making, I do feel that is is superior to everything else that I have tried, but that is just my opinion. Two layers of coutil, one fashion layers of obnoxious satin fabric.

I start with fusing the fashion fabric to the coutil, I do this before cutting the pieces, this eliminates problems such as fusing wrong sides together, fashion fabric stretching and you only need to cut two layers, not three.

Then I cut out my pieces, I usually have 1,5 cm (0.6 inches) seam allowance, for some reason I had 2 cm (0.8 inches) this time, you will have four pieces of every pattern. one right and left piece of coutil with fashion fabric and one right and left piece of coutil. I cut four layers in the same time when I made this, this is not recommended since the layers shift a bit, cut two layers at most.

Look now we have all the pieces cut out, I hate cutting fabric, it is so boring.

Since I have no busk, I have four pieces of boning in the center front to make the front sturdy. I start out with sewing the channels for them.

Now on to the “real” sewing. I am using a technique called “flat felled seams” I like this technique because you get so nice insides, clean and nice. But I think that it is kind of hard to explain in writhing so if you go “what???” in the middle of the next section (and you will, I promise) please look at the pictures a few times, I am totally sure that if you look at them combined with my text you will understand.

Take your middle piece, then take the piece next to that, put them right sides together, this technique is that you are sewing in the seam allowance in between your fabrics.

Pin and sew the seam, cut some v’s in the curved seams.

Now fold over the pieces (this is when you actually get how the technique works and you go “eureka!” ;) ) See, the seam allowance on the inside! Clean and nice outside, clean and nice lining! Don’t you just love it.

Now pin the sides together, and iron them all flat.

Sew a seam as close to the edge as you wish, I do it really close.

Then you are making the channel for the boning, the boning channel depends on how wide your boning is. I mostly use the 7,5mm and then I sew boning channels that are about 9mm wide. If you have 5mm wide boning you make channels that are about 7 mm wide and so on. The channel is in other words a seam with a distance which you choose; next to the seam you just made.

Now you are finished with one side, do the other side just the same way.

Then you just continue with the rest of the pieces. Remember to cut V’s in curved seams, to avoid bulkiness of the seams, it does not weaken the seam at all.

I like to decide the shape of the corset when I am already sewing it, so When all the pieces are put together but before binding it I fix the shapes in the top and bottom.

Fixed!

Now pop in your boning, I use spring steel except for the curved seams were I use spiral steels.

Now on to binding. We are binding the center back now, I am using ready made satin bias binding.
We are putting it on in what you might thing is the wrong way, but this way you get a nice seam on the outside of the corset.
Your are sewing the bias tape onto the lining side, then you flip it over and pin it on the fashion side, understand now, the edges inside, and the finishing seam of the binding comes on the outside of the corset, making sure that it gets pretty.

Do the same for the top and the bottom of the corset.

When binding is done we are doing the grommets, I mark out were I want them and then trying to NOT brake any of the treads I make a hole and put the grommet in.

After setting all the grommets you are now done!

Here is the corset on its owner.

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