16th century German – gollar

It was ages ago that I made a tutorial for something and I had this one kind of laying around (in the paper version) so I thought that I should make it into a pretty Illustrator picture and upload it here with pictures of my own gollar that I made for this summer.

gollar - front open

My gollar is made out of wool and lined with rabbit fur and can be worn both with the collar down and the collar standing, it is closed with three hooks and eyes in the front.
As it is hard to take photos of your own back I bribed my sister to act as a model, she is much smaller then me so it looks a bit big on her.
gollar - front
gollar - side
gollar - back
gollar - detail
gollar - gusset detail
gollar - side open
gollar - back

Here are some inspirational pictures
Martin Schaffner 1533
gollar inspiration
gollar inspiration 2
Hans Holbein the Younger 1523
gollar inspiration 3

And finally the pattern, the measurements are in cm NOT in inches, click for bigger picture. The pattern is based on the drawings and not any extant gollar and to make make this pattern more historically correct you could choose to not have the gore in the back.
I have been made aware that the original pattern have some things that are faulty, I have now added a new pattern here where the changes are made in red. It is that the cut for the gore in the back should be 13,5 cm long, not 13 as it said before as the gore when drafted is 13,5cm long.
Also the shoulder seam on the front pattern piece is to short. Elongate as the picture shows with 2,5 cm and redraw the curve of the collar.
Sorry for any inconvenience, this was my fist pattern and I did not check the seams before posting.

gollar - pattern front NEW
gollar - pattern back NEW

As usual a toile is a good idea to make sure of the fit before you cut into fancy fabric. Good luck and happy sewing!. THae

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20 thoughts on “16th century German – gollar

  1. Very interesting. I’m not in re-enactment, but I admire the way people make historical clothes. They buy linen and wool in appropriate colours, they read a lot of books. I love Your tutorials! I want to make Your Victorian skirt.

  2. That’s really amazing and beautiful…I so want one…
    Thank you very much for the pattern! :)
    Greetings Lepi

  3. nej inga historiska förlagor har jag hittat alls, utan jag har enbart utgått från tavlorna, och vetskapen om medeltidens förtjusning för kilar ;) Jag försökte först göra en utan kil i bak genom att bara ställa ut den i axelsömmen, men det funkade inte. Eftersom en kil är ett bra sätt att spara tyg så tänkte jag att det vore ett optimalt sätt att få till formen så att den överensstämmer med de högknäppa gollars på tavlorna + att få in tidens tygsparartänk.
    I “a history of costume” av Carl Köhler så nämns gollers i skrift och där finns två mönsterdiagram som är helt omöjliga att sy efter, men jag har baserat mina diagram lite på dem men mest på toillearbete. Fast hur pålitlig Carl är är nästa fråga, han var tysk, levde på 1700/1800talet och har översatts några gånger till diverse språk. Men det är en rolig bok, även om vissa diagram är tvivelaktiga . :)

  4. Ja kan hålla med dig att Köhlers mönster inte är något att hänga i granen :)
    Det är en intressant konstruktion. Jag hade själv inte något behov av en kil, men min går inte lika långt upp i nacken utan slutar ungefär vis hårfästet. Jag gjorde den lite kortare då den annars skulle konkurrerat om utrymmet med min wulsthaube i nacken.

  5. Cathrin, thank you so much for your tutorials. I would love to try and make this collar.
    I like how you put a bit of your reasearch in there as well. congratulations on your work.
    On another note, I have followed your underbust corset tutorial…would you be able to make a similar one (pattern making) for the corset you taught to sew please?

  6. Humm…it looks sooo comfortable with this sweet fur on the neck and it can easily adapt to an outfit of every day. I think that I’m gonna make it one…or two : ) Thank you for the pattern and the Idea!

  7. Hello Cathrin

    I very much like your Gollar, thank you for the pattern. I would love to see a tutorial on how you lined it with rabbit fur.

  8. First, you are amazing! I’m working on making my own liripipe (though just in a cozy flannel) right now and cannot wait for it to be finished! I’m planning on buying a nice piece of wool to make myself a real one once this is finished!

    Second, I drafted the gollar last night but had some problems when I started sewing. Does your pattern include seam allowances in the shoulder and gusset? Also, the shoulder seam length is off by about 3cm.

    Many thanks! – E

    PS I’ve posted pictures on Google+ https://plus.google.com/u/0/104111092385687676177/posts/gwUDW6zD4en

  9. @Elisabeth Reeves
    Thank you for those kind words, I am glad to be able to help.
    No there is no seam allowances at all in the pattern, everyone want to use different so I decided to leave the pattern without it so that people can decide for themselves. I checked the pattern and you are so right, the shoulder seams do not match, this was my first pattern and I did not check the seams, but I will take the time to redraft the pattern, thank you do much for telling me this :) I also noticed that the gusset is slightly to long as well, back to the drawing board!

  10. Thank you for replying so quickly!
    I’ve drafted a solution to the seam length problem and posted the photo in the same Google+ album. I had to adjust the front point as well but will probably curve it again once I have it in muslin.
    I’ll try again tonight or Thursday with added seam allowances and the adjusted shoulder and post more pics.

  11. Hej! en snabb fråga, har upptäckt samma problem som Elisabeth, men hur lång är det meningen att kilen ska vara och Vart ska jag lägga till tre cm? (mönsterkonstruktion är inte riktigt min grej.) Tack så mycket för många fatastiska mönster :)

  12. Enki: Jag hade helt glömt bort att fixa dethär mönstret, men nu har jag uppdaterat det och vad som behöver ändras och hur det ska göras kan du se i rött på det nyupplagda mönstret

  13. @ Cathrin Ingen fara, borde ju ha läst igenom kommentarerna innan jag tog fram saxen ;) åter igen, tack så mycket

  14. Hello Cathrin, I like your blog so much, it’s so inspiring!! This collar pattern is pretty cool and I made some similar gollars with variations (Lengt, shape of hemline, neckline). But until now I have no idea, how to fix it, so it will not get out of place. I made it with linnen lining, and if I move normally, the front opening slips left and right. I sew a little hook at the foot of the opening and fastened it to my dress with a hidden eyelet. It’s better now, but not perfect. The hook slips out with moving forward (p.e. bend over for cooking). Do you know this phenomenon?
    lovely greetings from germany!
    Patricia

  15. Patricia: I am happy that you like my blog :) Gollars does move around and are not really that practical all the time. One tip I have is to not line it in linen but with wool, that would make it not slippery and it should stay on your shoulders better, if not I would do as I always do, I would use dress pins and pin it to my clothing at the shoulders, you can pin anything to make it stay ;)

  16. Sån jävla jätte tack för din fantastiska förmåga att inspirera och lära ut.
    Jag har ofta svårt att förstå mönster men ditt mänster till kampfrau kragen/gollar var genialiskt!
    Super, super tack!

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