Lengberg Castle brassiere, it works!

In my previous blog post about the Lengberg Castle brassiere where you can find the pattern I had just made it and not really worn it, I mostly wanted to put the pattern out there as soon as possible so that people could try it by themselves for the summer season.

But now I have finally tried it out to see how it works.
The fabric used for it was a bit thin so I have lined the body of it (not the cups) with a heavier linen fabric, I have also added a skirt part, as can be seen many of the medieval pictures. I have also made the cups slightly less pointy as I was not really happy whit the shape of the breasts.

Here are some pictures of the brassiere type of dress.
My favourite picture, I need one of those pillows
A woman in a window
One more that has wider shoulder straps.

Lengberg Castle brassiere, it works

Now on to how it actually works.
I wore my bra dress for every day of my visit to Visby, that is 6 full days.
I have never worn anything as comfortable as this thing, I usually get marks from wearing my modern under wire bra for a full day. But with my bra dress there was NO marks at all, and this things sits really tight around the torso! I think that as I used a soft wool braid in the lacing this helped with not giving me any lines from the lacing either.
There is not as much lift as my modern under wire, but there was no uncomfortable droopyness, they sat where they should all day with no discomfort. I really recommend this style, I have big breasts and it worked perfectly for them. Also, the fantastic feeling of not having any uncomfortable pressure from my under wire, that does give me marks after a full days work.

Lengberg Castle brassiere - front
Here is a picture of the front of the bra dress (hello hips!).

Lengberg Castle brassiere - comparison
Even if taken at slightly different angles and one year apart, the left picture is my green dress with my bra dress under, and the right picture is my green dress with a modern bra under.

My other posts about the Lengberg Castle brassiere.

Lengberg Castle brassiere
Lengberg Castle brassiere – comparison

25 thoughts on “Lengberg Castle brassiere, it works!

  1. I would love to see pictures of the front of the bra as well as you fully dressed. I was curious about the lacing going around and tying in the back. Was there a reason for that?

    Thank you for posting about your work; it’s really interesting to see a modern version.

  2. Maddalena: I added a picture of the front and also a caparison picture of the bra dress and a modern bra with the same dress.

    The reason for tying the strings in the back is that it felt as the easiest way of tying the strings tightly, I could have tied them individually at each side, but tying things in the sides are a hassle and to redo it every day, but that was my plan at first.
    I did the tying in the back for a quick try on because I was lazy and realised that it worked really well to do it as a regular thing.

  3. Quick question: Does the bra lay flat against your chest in the middle?
    Not quite sure how it;s called but i mean the part inbetween your breast ?
    I’m gonna give the patern a try .

    Oh a little bit of topic but the feeling pressure from the wires? That normaly means that the wires are wrong for you , size and everything might be correct but there are a whole lot of different wires out there and finding the right one can be quit a puzzle .
    Been there and done that .

    And even another subject : Really nice site with a whole lot of information , thank you!

  4. Danielle: No it does not sit flat against my chest in the middle, I think that it is impossible to make it flat agains the chest without underwire or some kind of really stiff insert like the busks from the 18th century.
    For me, the pressure from the wires usually comes in the end of a full days wear, so it it is not a constant presssure, but it might be as you say to.

  5. Thank you for the pictures! It looks like the bra dress is doing a good job and the overall look is comparable to what you see in art. I have trying to make one on my list for this next year. It’s helpful to see what you have done.

  6. I’ve been following you for a while now, but just recently subscribed to your posts. This is such wonderful information. I really want to make one of my own, even if its not part of my persona’s wardrobe. Absolutely wonderful information and construction. Thank you! :)

  7. Would making the body of the bra longer give a flatter stomach? or would it just bunch up the fabric too much?

  8. Beautiful fit. You and I are about the same size, so thank you for your tutorial. What about the dress? Do you have a write up on this also? I like this look.

  9. Thank you for laying out the pattern on this bra-dress or slip. It does look odd. I want to try one of these, as I’m very “busty”. I wear a US 42 or 44 G and the idea of going without a bra is very unappealing. As is tailoring a dress that is so tight I can’t hardly breathe to act as support for my bust. The problem I worry about with this bra-slip is will it stretch? I wear linen mostly here in Southern California as its frequently around 35 degrees C. I really appreciate your blog. Danke!

  10. If you have enough lift in the bra itself, the skirt shouldn’t be necessary. Even in modern bras, if it’s too small and has no underwire, it means you’re too big for it or it doesn’t have enough support. Think of those sports bras that tuck underneath the bust.

    Laced kirtles don’t need bras. Supportive kirtles work on a DD, and I would know since I am one. You need to cut the curve so that it actually lifts the bust. If you’re not getting support, you cut it wrong. Kirtles were meant to suppress and lift. The basic pattern in Medieval Tailor’s Assistant is before it’s fitted to the body. If you’re over a DD, then you need this bra.

    Also, 14th Century women didn’t actually have a pregnant posture. It was exaggerated illustration, and poor proportions. Clearly they didn’t have stick figure bodies or oddly elongated arms either. The bust was often suppressed to avoid sinful thoughts, hence a more boyish illustration to their appearance.

  11. What’s with the claim of a skirt being seen on medieval bras? It sounds like you’re mistaking this for the bohemian bathhouse. It’s a simple sleeveless shift with only 2 seams and no gores. Just alter the pattern for a fitted waist and high set arm holes. There’s no need for 4 seams at all, and it’ll look like it could be laced. But it wasn’t. It would have been indicated in the illustrations.

  12. I plan to make one of these for my wife, she is of a similar size to you. And for a completely male point of view regarding your comments about the outfit making your hips seem larger….. there are a lot of us that like the curves. :) Just saying. Thanks for posting these. I am really looking forward to making this. I like the idea that this can also serve as a kind of slip. Is it about as or more comfortable than say a sorts bra? I imagine it offers more support than a sports bra but I am thinking it would be at least as comfortable.

  13. This is amazing! Can you tell how you attached the skirt to the bra, or is it seperate? Thank you!

  14. this is simply fabulous !! I have many large busted friends who would love to go without an underwire! I myself Have a hard time finding a good bra but I have the opposite problem. is it possible to make the center of the bra section less wide ? or does it create a uniboob ?

  15. Hi, i just wanted to say that i actually like it better with your bra dress. It gives the breasts a much more natural, nice shape, but with support, no sagging or anything. I have only C cups so i go without bra most days and i have come to find the general natural shape of the female breast much more beautiful than the “perfect” round one the underwire bras give them… So yeah. I don’t know if i can pull it off but i might try this pattern and wear it just for fun too. I’m really intrigued.
    Manuela from Austria

  16. This is my first visit; you are very adventurous in your patterns; I like your work. I am an amateur seamstress in the US, but I don’t sew that intricately, as I made “useful,” modern clothing, for me and my granddaughters.

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