buttoned and lined liripipe

I thought that I would show you how I made my buttoned liripipe.

The pattern is a mix of Herjolfsnes no.72 from Greenland and hood no. 246 from the excavations in London. It is a tight hood but it can be worn both closed and open with the front part turned back.

I used a really nice thin grey wool for the outside fabric and a bright fun checked wool for the lining. I study tailoring and we made half a tailored jacket as a exercise and after everyone had cut out their jackets there was a lot of fabric over due to the fact that we pattern matched it. And most people just threw the pieces away since they were pretty small and they thought it was kind of ugly.
So I sneaked around and pulled their pieces out of the bins, free fabric is love.
The colours fit into the medieval colour spectra with a madder red and the other colours are also possible to achieve with plant dyes. So I pieces the scraps together, I know that pattern matching is not that period but I could not help myself, I just love pattern matching.
I sew with waxed linen thread and with sewing thread depending on what I am sewing.

Liripipe - 1
I start with cutting the shell fabric out. I have a pieced liripipe to save fabric so I take my big piece and put it on the lining with the wrong sides together.

Liripipe - 2
Then I baste the two layers together. Making sure that I do not baste to close to the edge at the slits for the shoulder gore.

Liripipe - 3
Then I cut the hood out of the lining fabric. Doing it this way in stead of cutting them separately is that there is no need to match them later, they are identical right from the start.

Liripipe - 4
Cut the slits for the shoulder gore in the lining fabric to.

Liripipe - 5
We are going to start with putting the shoulder gores in. We will sew them in from the right side. It is a easy way to set gores without having to worry about the tip being all wonky.
With a chalk I draw the sewing allowance on the gore. I have 1cm

Sewing the gores in from the right side is a technique that have been found on the garments from Greenland.

Liripipe - 6
The cut slits in the hood have now sewing allowance so put the cut edge to the chalk line.

Liripipe - 7
You should put the gore in between the lining layer and the shell fabric.
This is why you should not baste to close to the edge.

Liripipe - 8
Pin it in place.

Liripipe - 9
Fold the edge of the slit in.

Liripipe - 10
Do this all the way around the slit, see how easy it is to make a pretty tip on the gusset.

Liripipe - 11
Make sure that you only pin the shell fabrics layers together.

Liripipe - 12
Then sew the gusset with this kind of stitch.

Liripipe - 13
Make sure that you only sew the shell fabric together.

Liripipe - 14
And there is your gusset.

Liripipe - 15
This is the backside. The line is there to help me to pattern match the lining gusset.

Liripipe - 16
Do the same thing with the lining gusset. Yes, there might have been some non period pattern matching going on here to, but there is a lot of piecing and that is totally period

Liripipe - 17
Then you attach the liripipe the same way, from the right side. I do this because I am lazy and that it gives you a nice flat seam from the beginning. And the seam will not get any wear so it will hold anyway.

Liripipe - 18
I do not line the liripipe, no one will see it anyway and it will just be bulky.

Liripipe - 19
I cut the seam allowance down a bit, to reduce the bulk even more.

Liripipe - 20
Liripipe - 21
Then I sew down the seam allowance. I use filler threads to keep the edges from fraying, and it looks pretty as well. This is a technique that have been found in the garments from Greenland.

Liripipe - 23
Liripipe - 22
Then I mark out the centre front of the hood. On the buttonhole side I want it to overlap with 0,5 cm so I mark that out to.

Liripipe - 24
I baste the centre front line on the button hole side to make it easy for myself when I am going to mark out the button holes later on.

Liripipe - 25
On the side were the buttons will be attached I fold in the seam allowance completely, since you want the buttons to be attached to the edge of the hood at the centre front.
I cut some notches in the seam allowance to make it possible to press.
On the side where you want the button holes you only press in 0,5cm since you want it to overlap a bit.

Liripipe - 26
I trim down the seam allowance where the notches are so that the notches are cut of, It looks prettier.

Liripipe - 27
Then I trim away the lining a bit, to make it smoother.

Liripipe - 28
Cast down the edge with filler thread.

Liripipe - 29
Like this.

Liripipe - 30
Finish of both sides the same way.

Liripipe - 31
Then you sew the buttonholes. I use a silk buttonhole thread to work mine, It gives the best results and have been found on the garments described in Textiles and clothing.
I wait with the buttons since I always sew the buttons on last. It is a tailor habit and comes from the fact that you can not do a proper last press on a garment if the buttons are on it.

Liripipe - 32
Not it is time to sew the neck seam. I mark out where I want to sew.

Liripipe - 33
I start at the liripipe. Here I sew with short running stitches. There is no stress on these seams and sewing a back stitch is just wasting time.

Liripipe - 34
I sew with short running stitches all the way to this point in the neck, this is where I start sewing with back stitches.

Liripipe - 35
Then I press the seams apart.

Liripipe - 36
Period seam allowances are narrow so I try to simulate that with cutting my seam allowances down a bit.

Liripipe - 37
Liripipe - 38
Liripipe - 39
As I have done with all my other seams, I use the filler threads when I cast the edges down.

Liripipe - 40
Now it is time to hem the hood. I have chosen to tablet weave around the hood.
If you want to know how to do it, I explained this in my tutorial on how to make a open hood.
Click here to go to it.

Liripipe - 41
Now we make the buttons. Mark out the size on a piece of fabric.

Liripipe - 42
Liripipe - 43
Using a strong thread (I use waxed linen) sew running stitches around the circle.

Liripipe - 44
Then I trim the edges. If you have a big button you can leave these on to use for filling of the button. But my button is small so I cut it away.

Liripipe - 45
I gather the the button around my thumb.

Liripipe - 46
Fold the edges inside.

Liripipe - 47
Make a single knot and pull it together.

Liripipe - 48
Then I massage it between my fingers. I find that this makes a better shape and also enables you to pull it even tighter.

Liripipe - 49
Pull it tighter and make the second knot.

Liripipe - 50
And then you have a button small round and tight.

Liripipe - 51
Liripipe - 52
Using the left over threads I sew them right onto the edge. Make sure that they have a bit of a neck or else they will be hard to button.

Liripipe - 53
Now it is time to take away all the basting and to press your hood well. The tailor in me hates unpressed seams, everything is better well pressed.

And then it is done! Worn here with my modern clothes and my Bigritta cap.
Liripipe - 54
Liripipe - 55
Liripipe - 56
Liripipe - 57
Liripipe - 58
Liripipe - 59

And of course the pattern. In cm per usual.
liripipe pattern

a whole bunch of dresses, and some more

I am really LOUSY at keeping this blog updated, sorry as usual, but at least I KNOW I’m lousy at it.  ;)
But I bring lots of new photos now, because it is not like I haven’t done anything during my blog silence.

striped dress
So I begin with the striped dress.

striped dress - sewing
This dress is made out of striped stretch tulle, really nice and heavy thing, not all that stiff as tulle use to be. And there were a LOT of ruffling involved in this dress and a lot of fabric, about 10 meters of fabric, that is about 10,9 yards

striped dress - spread out
The hem of the dress is about 22 meters (about 24 yards) totally crazy!

striped dress - ruffle
striped dress - detail
The good thing about the tulle is that you don’t have to hem it at all, the edges stay clan and crisp anyway.

striped dress - on
Another good thing about the dress is that since it is only made out of tulle, one can have it all year round.  It is cool in the summer with just a under dress or as this, with a polo and wool tights in the winter.

long empire waist dress
On to my favourite dress at the moment, a long maxi dress with empire waist.

long empire waist dress - detail
The top of the dress is made out a tin wool fabric, I just love this fabric it is so thin that you can wear it in the summer and since it is wool you do not have to wash it at all, one just needs to hang it out to air and it becomes all fresh again. Wool is really a fabulous material.

long empire waist dress - on
The bottom is a thin cotton fabric.

long empire waist dress - fabric
I got this fabric from a old lady who had bought it in when she was young, I just love it.

long empire waist dress - back
The buttons in the back is covered in the same fabric as in the skirt.

short empire waist dress
As I liked the long dress so much I decided to make a short version of it to.

short empire waist dress - on
short empire waist dress - side
short empire waist dress - back
short empire waist dress - fabric
The skirt fabric is an old curtain.

short empire waist dress - skirt
I miscalculated the skirt part so it ended up to tight, so I solved the problem by putting in a half circle in the back, made out of the same fabric as the top.

casual dress
I need more casual dresses so I made this one.
It is made out of jersey fabric for the top and the bottom is actually a skirt I have had in my wardrobe for ages but never use.

Jumpsuit - long
The jumpsuit is something I wanted to to last summer, but never got around to it. It is made in a wool fabric, but a thicker one so it is a bit to warm for summer, but good for rainy summer days, or autumn, this will be GREAT this autumn.

Jumpsuit - short
One can pull it up to, then it looks just like a dress.

jumpsuit - inside
As I don’t have a serger at the moment I’m encasing all my seam allowances in bias tape, I love how clean it gets

summer dress - front
The last dress was something I made for myself but that I miscalculated so gravely that it ended up being something like three sizes to small, it just sat really funny on my body.

summer dress - jump
My dear little sister was nice and helped me get some nice photos of it.

summer dress - sleeve
summer dress - skirt detail
It is made out of a thin viscose fabric and a lot of satin bias tape.

summer dress - front detail
The inspiration to it comes from the 18th century “chemise a la reine” and one can choose where to tie the removable band, in the waist or under the bust; wherever you feel like.

summer dress - back
summer dress - back detail
summer dress - key
The chain in the back prevents the dress from falling of the shoulders due to the low back and the full sleeves, it is totally removable to make washing easy.

summer dress - note
Late nights when I try to sleep but can not, I sometimes make these small notes on sewing for myself to remember good ideas that would disappear after a good nights sleep. This note is about how to sew the ruffles onto the dress so that the raw edges gets encased at the same time.

smocked leather belt on body
And at last, I remembered that I had not yet showed the smocked leather belt on a real person yet, so here you have it on a body!

2009

So one is supposed to summon up the year that have passed and here comes my 2009

January
necklacesembroidered pendantsblack on black pincushionpair of stays2009-01-09 pocket hoops
I came up with a new version of my burned books necklace, did some embroidery. I started on a pair of stays and pocket hoops but it took me quite some time to finish them up.

February
casualsteam  shirt 1the finished jacket frontmy birthday cakegates print - under "construction"gray wool dress - front18th century pair of stays almost done
I made a steampunk inspired shirt, finished my striped jacket, became 21 and therefore made a cake, posted my panties tutorial, printed on fabric, made a gray wool dress and thought that I would finish the pair of stays soon. (it is not done yet ;))

March
summer dress finishednew dressbutton corset - details backPhotobucketnew necklace designblack warpcoin purses and a bow
I started march out with making a summer dress, then I made another dress to, I had a mini photo shoot all by myself on my balcony, I covered a corset in vintage buttons, I posted my “Victorian skirt” tutorial, I made more pretty necklaces, I wrote about the school I studied at and I also made some bows and purses.

April
finished rag rugcollectionre:design24 setup 5weaving damask - closeup on pattern
I made a rag rug, my sister turned 13 so I made her a cake, I was busy working with a final collection in school, I entered a competition and won my own sewing machine and I started to weave damask a technique that I totally loved.

May
button corset 2 - back
May was a bad month for me, my father passed away and that made me tired and I had no energy, to be able to keep the school work up I did not tell my teachers or classmates about it either, I had no time for being sad or being treated different since we were at the end of the term. I did some some things this month, I posted a tutorial on how I sew my corsets which is the thing that is most visited post in my entire blog and I covered a second corset with buttons.

June
swim dressfashion showorganic cotton jersey balloon dressdamask weave nr2empire waist balloon dressdamask dresscherries dresscarpetbagpanniers
This month was mostly about dresses! I made a swim dress, we had a fashion show in school, I made a organic cotton jersey dress, I started on a new damask fabric, I made a dress for my fathers funeral, I made a dress out of the damask fabric I made, I made a dress with cherries on it, I made a carpet bag and I finally got around to taking pictures of the finished panniers.

July
sewing a balloon skirtsteampunk heart - beside a pocket watch movement
I worked all of July so there was not really a creative month for me but I managed to make a tutorial on how to make a balloon skirt, drafted my first corset pattern for someone else then me and I also made steampunk hearts.

August
I did not make anything this month, but I moved and started a new school.

September
pencilskirt20simpleskirt1
This month I did not make anything either, I felt bad about it and made a tutorial on how to make a pencil skirt and a tutorial for a really simple skirt.

October
six by six -  furrosa - finishedgreen dress - onstriped corsetleatherworking - iron on transfer and d-ringsleather colour sampleswool balloon dress - mirror picturemoose apron - frontruffle skirtanother woll dress in the makingbook binding
My new school started in the end of august but I ha no time blogging about stuff until October, crazy crazy but fun fun! I tried out hands on new machines, made a leather rose, I made a green dress, I started on and almost finished a striped corset, I learned leather working techniques and how to colour leather, I made a wool balloon dress that became my definite favourite this year, I made a apron out of moose leather, I started some projects I never finished as this ruffle petticoat and this wool dress and I tried my hands on book binding.

November
scrapswool balloon dress - close up
Busy in school making stuff I had no time for blogging but I managed to post about how to turn leather scraps into useful things, I also translated my corset sewing tutorial to Swedish and made a peter pan collar drafting tutorial.

December
Xena outfit - on dollChristmas chocolateChristmas wrappingknäckcray dupion corset - lacingpaper model - straight onChristmas dress - closeupstriped corset - onmanipulation fabric - honeycomb smocksmocking leather - in progress on dollCordula B.-Morich
In December I made a lot of stuff but I have not posted about all I made yet. I did make a Xena outfit for a costume party at school, I did a lot of Christmas related stuff, chocolate, gift wrapping and “knäck”. I also made a gray dupion corset. built stuff out of cardboard, a Christmas dress, I finished the striped corset, I smocked a lot of fabric, and some leather to and then I also bought a kick ass pitcher that costed so much more then I could actually afford as a poor student.

button corset nr2

The second button corset have been done for quite some time, but I have had no time to photograph it before now.
The pattern is made by me and the corset is sewn in two layers of cotton coutil, spring steels all around, extra wide busk, two piece grommets, flossing on the top of all the steels, hand sewn buttons, satin lacing.

button corset 2 - side back
button corset 2 - front
button corset 2 - back
button corset 2 - buttons
button corset 2 - close up
button corset 2 - full view

button corset take 2

buttons
Yes yes, I am making another button corset, this time it is in black coutil and as an underbust. The buttons are bright pink this time and all the same, and will not be overlapping each other as on the white button corset. And I have tried my hand on flossing for the fist time, and I like it! It is only on
the top of the bones that are flossed as the bottoms are under buttons. The flossing sort of balances the buttons over the hips in a nice way and it gives it that certain extra extra something :)
flossing

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button corset finished

So it is finished :D The buttons were all sewn on by hand by the way :P yes I am crazy!

button corset and fishtail skirt - back
button corset and fishtail skirt
button corset - front
button corset - side
button corset - back
button corset - details back
button corset - details side

The corset itself is made out of two layers of white coutil with a waistband and spring steel boning. It was my fist time making a cupped corset and I am not really satisfied with the result, the shape is a bit wonky and the corset turned out to be to big for me (putting the some pattern pieces in a envelop were another corset size lives is not a good idea), it fits nicely on the body so it is not all to big, but it gives no reduction.

Overall I am happy with it and it gives me a bit of mermaid feeling, I have no idea how many buttons there are, lets stick with A LOT. ^^

button corset

We are having a assignment in school that is about “changing a surface”, one can practically do anything so I have decided to do something that I have thought about for along while, a corset with lots and lots of buttons on it.

button corset
so I am currently making the corset that I am putting all the buttons on, a white coutil corset with cups on, my fist time making a cupped corset so I am exited about trying it out :)
The buttons will then be sewn on by hand I’m thinking a pattern that reminds of lace or something similar. The buttons are in all sizes, material and colours; from light brown to snow white.
I kind of want to get the same feeling across as the clothes at Gibbous Fashions gives out.