The striped 16th century German dress

This year is the first year in my life to go to Medeltidsveckan (medieval week) on Gotland and since I have NO medieval clothing what so ever this spring have been very much about making a few outfits for me to wear. My favourite fashion turned out to be the 16th century German fashion. It just fits me so well and I just love it and I am well in the way of making my first dress.
But I just had to convince Bella (the girl in the pictures of my last post) who is also going to medeltidsveckan for her first time that she totally needed to be a 16th century German woman to. That was SO easy especially as I offered to actually sew her outfit for her and that it could be black, striped and not that colourful. She does not wear colour that much and sticks to the black outfits with mixed in grey tones.

The outfit is very much inspired by this painting by Bonifacio Veronese from around 1540

So what I made for her is a three part outfit; skirt, blouse and a bodice. All machine sewn, historical accuracy was not the important thing but a pretty dress that when worn looked correct.

striped 16th century German - blouse
The blouse is a really simple one, made up after a pattern you can find here (is is in Swedish)
It is made in a nice white linen fabric from Medeltidsmode, they have the best collection of wool and linen fabrics I have found in Sweden so far, and the woman who runs it is so nice and really cares about her customers.
The neck and sleeves gathers with a cord, so super simple but still nice.

striped 16th century German - skirt
The skirt is made out of wool, also from, it is just strips that have been sewn together to form the skirt and then pleated onto a waistband, the skirt is lined with the same linen fabric as in the blouse. I know that it should feature a under skirt in stead of a lining, but Bella wanted a low maintenance outfit, so I decided on less thing to put on is a good thing, so therefore a lined skirt. The waistband is really thick due to the many layers of wool.

striped 16th century German - skirt, hidden pocket
Another thing that is not accurate with this skirt is that it features a hidden pocket in the opening of the skirt, Bella wanted a safe pocket to put her phone and money in.

striped 16th century German - modeled
I bribed my little sister to model Bellas skirt and blouse for me “if you do this you can borrow my red nail polish”.

striped 16th century German - bodice
The bodice was to small for my little sister so you just get to see it flat on my bed in stead.It is made out of wool and lined in linen.

striped 16th century German - hidden lacing
It has a hidden lacing in the front, spiral lacing of course and reinforced with two strips of flat steel boning. Ignore the wonky seam on the side of the boning, I stitched in the ditch in the front and that is how it ended up.

striped 16th century German - lacing detail
To not make it gap when worn, is is fastened with small stitches here and there in between the lacing.

striped 16th century German - sleeves detail
Detail of the sleeves.

striped 16th century German - sleeves
It have been slashed at the elbow.

striped 16th century German - over blouse
And this is how it might look when worn, the front looks uneven but is is not, I was lazy and only tied the bodice together with a string in two of the holes and because it is spiral lacing it goes uneven when just tied in two holes. Better pictures will probably be taken in week 32 at Gotland so you will see the finished outfit on Bella after that.

The Xena skirt

Here comes an in depth post about my Xena skirt.
xena skirt

xena skirt - long stips of leather
xena skirt - tabs
xena skirt - under tabs
The skirt is made up with both long pieces that are rounded in the bottom, and small pieces that also have a rounded bottom, the small pieces are riveted together by hand and overlap the long stips.
They are all hand cut from a vegetable tanned cowhide and then coloured with leather colour.

xena skirt - flexible
The fact that they are riveted makes them able to move a bit, not really sure that it is a good thing ;)

xena skirt - riveted
The pieces are riveted to a underskirt in the top, the do not go up entirely to the top since I am wearing a corset over it so I don’t want unnecessary bulk added on my hips.

Xena skirt - loop
Xena skirt - hook
In the front I have a loop to put my whip in, and a hook to put mychakram on, I have a leather sting to secure it to the hook, since I am not using it and I don’t want it to fall of while wearing the costume. The holders are also both riveted to the skirt, the loop for the whip have a snap closure, so it is easy to just secure the whip, and also easy to just pull it of.

Xena skirt - inside
Xena skirt - darts
The underskirt is made out of a scrap hide, I got if for no money at all and it was an ugly grey green colour. It have been cut in two and have been coloured and then I sewed darts in the waist, just like I would do on a regular skirt front and back.

Xena skirt - waistband
It also have a waistband made out of Petersham ribbon. Since it is leather the waist would naturally have stretched, a non stretchy waistband prevents this. It is also the waistband that holds the back and front piece together.

Xena skirt - closure
Xena skirt - closure 2
It closes at one side with press buttons, the leather overlaps a bit.


So one is supposed to summon up the year that have passed and here comes my 2009

necklacesembroidered pendantsblack on black pincushionpair of stays2009-01-09 pocket hoops
I came up with a new version of my burned books necklace, did some embroidery. I started on a pair of stays and pocket hoops but it took me quite some time to finish them up.

casualsteam  shirt 1the finished jacket frontmy birthday cakegates print - under "construction"gray wool dress - front18th century pair of stays almost done
I made a steampunk inspired shirt, finished my striped jacket, became 21 and therefore made a cake, posted my panties tutorial, printed on fabric, made a gray wool dress and thought that I would finish the pair of stays soon. (it is not done yet ;))

summer dress finishednew dressbutton corset - details backPhotobucketnew necklace designblack warpcoin purses and a bow
I started march out with making a summer dress, then I made another dress to, I had a mini photo shoot all by myself on my balcony, I covered a corset in vintage buttons, I posted my “Victorian skirt” tutorial, I made more pretty necklaces, I wrote about the school I studied at and I also made some bows and purses.

finished rag rugcollectionre:design24 setup 5weaving damask - closeup on pattern
I made a rag rug, my sister turned 13 so I made her a cake, I was busy working with a final collection in school, I entered a competition and won my own sewing machine and I started to weave damask a technique that I totally loved.

button corset 2 - back
May was a bad month for me, my father passed away and that made me tired and I had no energy, to be able to keep the school work up I did not tell my teachers or classmates about it either, I had no time for being sad or being treated different since we were at the end of the term. I did some some things this month, I posted a tutorial on how I sew my corsets which is the thing that is most visited post in my entire blog and I covered a second corset with buttons.

swim dressfashion showorganic cotton jersey balloon dressdamask weave nr2empire waist balloon dressdamask dresscherries dresscarpetbagpanniers
This month was mostly about dresses! I made a swim dress, we had a fashion show in school, I made a organic cotton jersey dress, I started on a new damask fabric, I made a dress for my fathers funeral, I made a dress out of the damask fabric I made, I made a dress with cherries on it, I made a carpet bag and I finally got around to taking pictures of the finished panniers.

sewing a balloon skirtsteampunk heart - beside a pocket watch movement
I worked all of July so there was not really a creative month for me but I managed to make a tutorial on how to make a balloon skirt, drafted my first corset pattern for someone else then me and I also made steampunk hearts.

I did not make anything this month, but I moved and started a new school.

This month I did not make anything either, I felt bad about it and made a tutorial on how to make a pencil skirt and a tutorial for a really simple skirt.

six by six -  furrosa - finishedgreen dress - onstriped corsetleatherworking - iron on transfer and d-ringsleather colour sampleswool balloon dress - mirror picturemoose apron - frontruffle skirtanother woll dress in the makingbook binding
My new school started in the end of august but I ha no time blogging about stuff until October, crazy crazy but fun fun! I tried out hands on new machines, made a leather rose, I made a green dress, I started on and almost finished a striped corset, I learned leather working techniques and how to colour leather, I made a wool balloon dress that became my definite favourite this year, I made a apron out of moose leather, I started some projects I never finished as this ruffle petticoat and this wool dress and I tried my hands on book binding.

scrapswool balloon dress - close up
Busy in school making stuff I had no time for blogging but I managed to post about how to turn leather scraps into useful things, I also translated my corset sewing tutorial to Swedish and made a peter pan collar drafting tutorial.

Xena outfit - on dollChristmas chocolateChristmas wrappingknäckcray dupion corset - lacingpaper model - straight onChristmas dress - closeupstriped corset - onmanipulation fabric - honeycomb smocksmocking leather - in progress on dollCordula B.-Morich
In December I made a lot of stuff but I have not posted about all I made yet. I did make a Xena outfit for a costume party at school, I did a lot of Christmas related stuff, chocolate, gift wrapping and “knäck”. I also made a gray dupion corset. built stuff out of cardboard, a Christmas dress, I finished the striped corset, I smocked a lot of fabric, and some leather to and then I also bought a kick ass pitcher that costed so much more then I could actually afford as a poor student.

Xena-warrior princess

The first big themed party at school had the theme series. I went as Xena.
I made all the stuff just for this event, and all the leather things except the corset is made out of vegetable tanned cowhide from Italy.
The arm braces have a tooled pattern on them, so does the shoulder piece and arm rings.

Xena outfit - arm brace before
Before tooling

Xena outfit - arm brace after
Halfway done

Xena outfit - arm brace, finished
All done

Xena outfit - on doll
All the pieces have been cut by hand and there are a LOT of rivets in that skirt.
The corset is one layer coutil and one layer of soft leather from a old jacket I had laying around.

Xena outfit - layed out
All lain out on the table

Xena outfit - shakra
I made the shakra out of paper clay which I put tinfoil on with decoupage technique.

Xena outfit - whip
I also braided a bull whip out of leftovers from my moose apron.

Xena outfit - arm brace
The arm braces are coloured, hand painted and then shaped with water to make them sit nicely around the arms.

Xena outfit - arm brace closing
Small buckles keep them on.

Xena outfit - bracelet
Arm rings.

Xena outfit - shoulder piece
Shoulder piece.

Xena outfit - shoulder piece and more
It have also been coloured, hand painted and moulded to fit the body while wet.

Xena outfit - wire bra
A iron bra made out of wire. This one I ended up not using since it fitted so badly when I got the corset on.

Sadly I do not have any pictures of it on me.

cotton skirt

a after school project I am having at the moment, cotton ruffles on a full circle skirt, it is REALLY heavy.

ruffle skirt

somehow I keep adding after school projects without finishing the old ones, now i have the striped corset, this skirt, and two dresses tagging along as after school projects, silly thing to make new things without ending old ones.

A simple skirt

This is a tutorial for a really simple skirt, simple but cute and with the same techniques you can make very different skirts. The style of the skirt is decided on how much fabric you have in it. For a very full skirt I would use the width of the fabric you are using, for a more narrow style use less fabric width. The waist of the skirt is a wide elastic.
Continue reading “A simple skirt”

How to sew a Victorian skirt

A old tutorial I had on livejournal, I hope you like it :)
So I thought that I would share my how to for this quite easy sewn skirt in taffeta that I made for a friend of mine, it is a two layer skirt with strings so that you can tie up and drape the panels as you wish. This is a bit simplified, On the original skirt the top of the skirt was lined with satin so it was not completed in the exact same way as in this tutorial, but trying to explain that whole deal was to time consuming to be worth it.

Material you will need:
Fabric: Of your choice, around 2 times the length of your skirt
A zipper: I use a hidden zipper because I think it looks better, but a ordinary one is just as good.
String: The length of your drapes and a little more *2*6 (you chose one can both have it the whole way up on the skirt or just half, or something similar) I use cotton string 0,5 cm (0,2 inches) thick.

Continue reading “How to sew a Victorian skirt”

mini photo shoot

I had a mini photo shoot all by myself on my balcony this Saturday, and as a girl who want to everything herself I played both model and photographer ;P A bit of fabric in one end of the balcony and the camera on timer in the other was all that was needed to make it work, and I do not have a big balcony at all :P I use a Canon PowerShot A640 and it have custom timer settings, so I have the setting on it waiting 1 second and then taking 10 frames at a row with 1 second in between.
wool jacket and skirt
summer dress
gray striped wool dress
button corset and fishtail skirt - back
button corset and fishtail skirt
Alice skirt and black corset
flower dress- silhouette
flower dress