February 2009


summer dress sketch and fabric
The sun is getting warmer and warmer and inspired by this I decided to make the summer dress that I bought fabric to for ages ago. I started on it today but unfortunately the “rack of doom” aka. my breast decided to do as usual, not play nicely. The empire waistline that I had measured out ended up on my stomach, in my waist. Really there it was 8cm to low even thou I had measured like a crazywoman. Empire waist lines always gets screwed up my my breast, ending up either ON them or way below. After some creative problem solving involving creating a new empire line and some pinning it did turn out fine. I only have the sleeves and some hemming left to do, I am really fast at sewing these kind of dresses ^^

18th century pair of stays almost done
the 18th century pair of stays are almost done now! The upper edge needs binding and there are a few small things left to be done, but I can see the light in the tunnel now ;)

Is finished!
gray wool dress - front
gray wool dress - back

I am really pleased with how this one turned out, it is in Italian wool and do want a bigger petticoat then what I have on in these pictures (I only have a normal skirt under it) The band under the bust is removable and was originally planned to be at the waist, but that looked really strange. It made my upper body look really short, But I do have a short upper body, and the big boobs does not really help with that.
gray wool dress - bow

Oh and the BOW! I just love how the bow turned out :) and the stripes as well, I just love them. I love everything on this dress and I think that it is the best dress that I have made so far.
gray wool dress - lines

The other entry on this dress can be found here

pair of stays - binding
I am binding the lower edge of my pair of stays, it is a real pain but I am doing it by hand, it seems to be the only way of doing it. I realize why a lot of people make the pair of stays with the big tabs, I have small and MANNY tabs, why did I do this? Oh well, no pain no gain.

I have found some really nice lace to use for the robe a la Francaise, and it was for free! We were at a underwear company with school this Wednesday, and there the nice lady who were showing us all the nice machines and materials they used said “do you want some materials” Yes! we all said and the lady picked out a BIG box with lace and other materials that were leftover from their production. When we got back to school our teacher said “take stuff when you need it”.
So I took some lace since I knew that I will be using it later.

It is not really what I wanted, it is synthetic, but it is quite high quality so it does not look all that horrible and to find cotton lace that looks like this seems to be impossible. I like the lace on the last picture least, but it is ok and It will be the flounce that is under the other ones.
lace for my robe a la Francaise
lace for my robe a la Francaise
lace for my robe a la Francaise

I don’t know if I have mentioned that I will be making a replica of pompadours green dress, and look at the flounces of lace, I think that my lace will fit perfectly.
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I am making a bjd with the proportions of a woman size 38 (European size) and the I am working with measurements that are is 1:4 of “life size” so I will end up with a doll that is approximately 41cm tall (16.1 inch) I am striving for making a body that is proportionate with a real woman’s body, it will probably end up as a curvier size 38 than my measurement guides calls for I like curves.

The reason that I am going after a measurement guide for “real people” is that I am studying textile and fashion design and we draw patterns both in full size (after our own measurements) and for 1:4 of a size 38 (European size) and this way It would be dead easy for me to make clothing for my doll being used to making patterns for this size already, and I feel that this size of doll is manageable, not to big and not to small.

This is also the reason why my body have hips and arm stumps on it, I am making a couple of mannequins to show of my collection that I am making in 1:4 scale and those need hips and stumps to make the garments hang as they should.

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So I started the whole project with making the body part, I have a Styrofoam core and then paper clay over that. The measurements are right but it is suffering of really bad case of two different breast sizes That is kind of fixed after I took the pictures. There is still a lot of work on it, and a lot of sanding to do, but this is what it looks like so far.
I do not have a sketch of how I want the body to look like, I like the process of things growing into them self and since I have my measurements to rely on I now how long the legs should be and so on.

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For the head I did make a sketch, I have worked after a picture, so to make it more doll like it will end up with bigger eyes that this sketch, but as I have said I like things to grow into them self. The head is really rough at the moment, I just wanted to get some shapes up and the profile to be ok.

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I am working at a gray wool dress at the moment, I’m really satisfied with how the stripes came out. The dress is inspired by a Innocent World dress, but not a replica at all. I am adding black bias and a little black bow to the neckline, and puffy sleeves with a black border in the edge, and I will be wearing this dress with a poofy underskirt and black belt.

gray wool dress
It needs ironing :P and the sleeves are merely pinned to the dress with a couple of needles.

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